Save this story Save Story Save this story A good skincare routine doesn’t need to be long or complicated. But if you want to take your skin to the next level, it pays to widen your arsenal beyond a cleanser , moisturizer , and SPF alone. Exfoliating, for instance, is one of the more worthwhile upgrades to your routine. By removing dead skin cells from the surface, exfoliation can yield a smoother texture, fewer clogged pores, and a brighter, more even skin tone. “For men, this also translates to fewer ingrown hairs and razor bumps, a closer shave, and healthier skin under the beard,” adds Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD , board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama.
Done right, exfoliating can clarify your complexion and visibly bring lackluster skin to life. Done wrong or too often, however, and you risk irritating the very skin you’re trying to improve. The trick is knowing how much exfoliation your skin can handle, and which formula deserves a spot on your shelf.
For many men, two to three times a week is a reasonable target, says Brendan Camp, MD , double board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York. But the right cadence also depends on your skin type. “Those with more sensitive skin may not be able to tolerate that frequency, while those with more oily or thick skin may notice they can exfoliate more often,” Camp says. And if you’re new to exfoliation, it’s best to start once weekly and work your way up only if your skin tolerates it.
Frequency also depends on the formula. For instance, some exfoliating cleansers are designed to use daily, while stronger leave-on acids or abrasive scrubs are often reserved for less occasional use. Heed the product instructions, but also gauge how your skin responds.
If you shave regularly, your razor is already doing some exfoliating of its own. Shaving removes dead skin cells, too, which is worth factoring in before adding another exfoliant. Hartman advises saving exfoliators for non-shave days (or nights if you typically shave in the morning).
And in case you’re dealing with a flare from conditions like eczema or rosacea , Camp advises skipping this step until your skin recovers.
First things first: Choose between a physical and chemical exfoliator. According to Camp, both options improve skin texture and reveal a brighter complexion. Yet physical exfoliators—which often use tiny particles like beads, sugar, or salt to polish the skin—tend to offer more immediate results. The catch? It’s easy to mistake more scrubbing for a higher payoff. Go too hard, and you can wind up with irritated, angry skin. If the instant gratification of a manual polish appeals to you (and you’re not dealing with acne or irritation), opt for gentle formulas and don’t take them to your face like a sandblaster.
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Then there’s the wonderful world of chemical exfoliators, which casts a wider net of benefits. “ Glycolic acid is more hydrating, mandelic acid is great for pigment concerns, salicylic acid works well for acne-prone skin, and lactic acid is gentle,” says Hartman. Plenty of products pair several exfoliating acids together, conveniently tackling several concerns in a single step. (This is a safer bet than layering different exfoliating products on top of each other.)
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It’s possible to overdo things with any type of exfoliator—whether that’s by using it too often or applying a product that’s too intense for your skin. “Over-exfoliating the skin can damage the skin barrier, predisposing the skin to dryness, irritation, and infection,” says Camp. Err on the side of caution by taking a low and slow approach. All the while, you’ll want to avoid layering too many actives on top of each other. For instance, it’s best not to pair exfoliators with the likes of vitamin C and retinol.
All the while, don’t forget to include supporting players in your regimen. When you exfoliate, Camp advises applying a hydrating serum and/or moisturizer right after. Star ingredients to look for include hyaluronic acid and glycerin. “This restores the integrity of the skin barrier and prevents dryness,” he says. Lastly, he adds that exfoliating can make your skin more sun-sensitive, so don’t skip your morning SPF .
No matter if you need supporting clearing breakouts or improving tone or texture, it’s well worth adding this step into your lineup. Just remember that a little exfoliation can go a long way.
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